How to Build a PC - Part 3
Motherboards, CPUs and all that
Before we get any further in to the building process itself, I'd like to review the capabilities of the ECS KA3 MVP motherboard in more detail. The KA3 MVP offers an excellent range of facilities for the price. Most modern peripherals either connect via USB2 or IEEE 1394 (Firewire). Whilst it is possible to add an external USB hub, it's good to have as many primary sockets as possible. In this instance, the motherboard offers 4 USB2 sockets on the back panel. A further pair of USB2 and a single IEEE 1394 connection are covered by an included rear bracket. The motherboard also has additional connections for use with cases that offer further ports and we'll be making use of that shortly. Usefully, another bracket is also included that supports eSATA for connecting external S-ATA devices. The box also contains s a full set of CD-ROM and hard drive ATA cables, S-ATA cables plus floppy disk cables. Finally, you get a S-ATA power cable (not needed for this build as the Antec PSU already has these) and to help recover from a BIOS problem, a spare Flash ROM is provided as part of ECS's 'Top Hat' system.
Whilst hard core gamers will probably opt for a separate sound card from the likes of Creative to maximise the system resources, most people will find the onboard 8 channel audio facilities more than good enough so this time round I've opted to go with the motherboard's sound rather than use a separate card. This high level of integration is another reason why the board can get by with only two PCI slots.
The pair of LAN connections are also welcome even if most people won't be using the gigabit one right now. A nice piece of future proofing nonetheless.
The board has two graphics card slots in the form of a pair of two PCI Express x16 slots. These are compatible with cards that support ATI's Crossfire system. We'll only be using one slot here but again, if gaming is your thing, you'll want to consider the two card option so look for a board that supports the twin card system for your target graphics card - there are two competing standards, ATI's and Nvidia's.
Overall I'd consider the KA3 MVP to be a great motherboard for a self-build. It provides a wealth of built in features such as LAN and audio plus enough S-ATA, USB2 and IEEE 1394 connections to meet anyone's needs. The fact that ECS supply all the leads and cables you are likely to need is a bonus.
So, on with the build...
Preparing the case
ATX style cases come with a blanking plate at the back where the various connectors such as serial, parallel and USB emerge. The Antec case comes with most of these already open to the outside world. As the ECS motherboard has additional LAN and audio connections, we need to replace the default one supplied with the Nine Hundred case for the one included in the ECS kit. Care needs to be taken as these I/O shields can have sharp edges.
The next job is to put the spacers in place. As the underside of the motherboard is awash with contacts, it would damage it if it touched the metal case. To avoid this, cases come with a pack of small spacers about a centimetre long. The motherboard has various holes dotted around it with metal surrounds. You need to screw the spacers in to the case so that they line up with the holes on the motherboard. The easiest way to do this is to measure the positions on the board and replicate them on the casing. If you're steady handed you can also hold the motherboard (by the edges!) just above the case and do it that way. Once done, you should have eight or so screwed in place as shown here. Happily, all but three were already in the right place with the Antec case.
CPU
The motherboard has an AMD AM2 socket so the CPU used here is an AM2 type. Be careful as there are several socket types around right now for AMD and you must match the CPU and motherboard. The CPU we will be using is an Athlon 64 X2 Dual-Core 4600. This little beast can be found for around £160 although I've seen it as low as £130 when I did a quick review of prices just after Christmas and is two separate processors in a single chip. A couple of years ago a power user would be looking at a single 3Ghz CPU so having two running at 4.6Ghz shows just how quickly things are moving right now in the CPU arena. Needless to say, unless you're in to waving your CPU as a badge of honour amongst your mates, you'll find this processor has more than enough grunt for anything you're likely to throw at it now or in the next couple of years (A risky statement! - Ed). One interesting aspect of the current crop of AMD CPUs is the integrated memory controller. This pretty much levels the playing field performance wise so AMD motherboards tend to get compared on their facilities and overclocking performance. The basic performance for any given CPU tends to be almost identical across different boards. More importantly, tests between the AMD and Intel CPUs show that whilst on paper, there is little difference in power requirements (recent Intel CPUs do run more efficiently compared to the AMD equivalent), in actual use, the AMD processors tend to use less juice when idling which can only be a good thing.
AMD are in the process of transitioning to AM2 although they have other sockets still in use. The Athlon 64 X2 Dual-Core 4600 allows you to run a 32 or 64bit operating system - the latter requiring the 64bit version of Windows XP or a suitable version of Linux. Most people will find 32bit Windows XP will suit them just fine though.
To install the CPU, ensure you are suitably earthed or use an anti static mat as described in part 1. I prefer to put the CPU along with the heat sink and memory in the motherboard prior to mounting the board in the case. It's usually much easier, particularly the heat sink as these parts can be fiddly to work with in a confined space.
Pick up the CPU by the edges taking care not to touch the many pins underneath. If you look carefully, you'll see two corners are a pin short and these match up with the CPU socket to ensure it can only fit one way. The side of the CPU socket has a small lever. Lift this up until it is vertical and gently drop the CPU on to the socket. Now close the lever.
Next up is the heat sink and fan. A good fan is an absolute must and as modern CPUs run very hot. You'll probably want to ensure you have an AMD approved one. You may wish to put a blob of thermal paste between the CPU and the heat sink to ensure a good fit between the two although the one used here, an Akasa ak862 9cm job had a layer already applied. You can get suitable stuff from Maplins or PC World. The fan is probably one of the most nerve wracking components to add. I've certainly got very close to destroying a motherboard before because of the force required to lock the heat sink and fan in place. The one used here was much easier as it utilised a lever to lock it in to place saving fiddling with a screwdriver to push the clip on. It really is vital you get a good heat sink and install it properly as the processor will overheat and die very quickly if the cooling isn't working right.
Once the fan is on, it needs to be connected to the motherboard for its power. The motherboard manual will show where the fan connector is. The fan has an optional speed control which provides and external knob on a bracket for adjusting the fan's speed and therefore noise levels to the task in question. You could set it slow for most jobs then crank it up prior to some serious number crunching or gaming.
RAM
Finally, the RAM goes in. Memory is another component which can be bought cheaply or properly. A slightly flaky DIMM can cause all sorts of weird symptoms before you realise what's wrong so for my money, it pays to get memory from a quality supplier such as Crucial. In this case, we have a pair of 512Mb DDR2 modules totalling 1Gb of RAM. RAM can be a bit of a minefield with so many speeds and types around. Before buying, check the motherboard manual or intended motherboard's support details online to see what matches. Different speeds are available with prices to match. The faster the RAM, the faster your PC will go. However, unless you're after a real no costs barred system, I'd suggest going for a middle ground for the best cost/performance ratio. To help choose your RAM, Crucial have a useful facility on their website called the Crucial Memory Advisor tool which has a database of pretty much every manufacturer and motherboard and can tell you exactly what types of memory will work. You can buy direct from the site too. The two 512Mb sticks used here are PC2-5300 rated and cost around £82 for the pair which Crucial sell as a 'kit'. Being a pair, it means they can be installed to make use of the dual channel feature that increases memory bandwidth. If you want to go for bells and whistles, Crucial also do a Ballistix Tracer range with nice flashing LEDs on them.
To insert the RAM, hold it by the edges. Do not touch the contacts. RAM is probably the most easily damaged part of your PC so be very careful. If you look at the motherboard, you'll see several sockets for RAM. In the case of the ECS KA3 MVP, there are 4. Position the RAM above the socket and make sure the notch half way down the socket is aligned with the RAM. This prevents you putting it in the wrong way around. Push the RAM gently but firmly down in to the socket. Once it is properly inserted, you should find the levers either side end have locked it in place.
The Motherboard
Take the motherboard and line it up with the spacers you fitted earlier. Carefully lay it in position making sure the springy metal bits around the rear I/O panel are all sat correctly and not being bent in the wrong direction then put screws in each hole with a spacer underneath around the board. You shouldn't need to force anything so be gentle. Put each screw in loosely then once they are all in and the board is lined up OK, tighten them all up.
PSU connection
The motherboard gets its power from the power supply unit (PSU) in to the case. This connector is big and chunky and has been designed so it can only be plugged in the right way round. If you can't find it, the motherboard manual will show you where it is. In this instance there is a second smaller 4 pin connection for power that connects near the CPU. I have to admit I forgot that one initially and wondered why I had an apparently dead machine even though the fans and drives all power up. Ahem.
Finishing off
The last step is to connect all the case cables to the motherboard. There is a number of thin wires that connect the case to the motherboard and these control such things as the power light, the disk activity light, the power switch and so on. Again, the motherboard manual will show where each one needs to go and happily, the case manufacturers clearly label each one with their function. Once these are all in place, you are finished for this stage.
The Nine Hundred case has top mounted USB2, IEEE 1394 and audio connections so those also need to be connected. Finally, install any additional brackets such as rear USB2/IEEE 1394 and eSATA ones that you may have.
In part 4, we'll look at the hard drive and CD-ROM and what's involved in fitting those.
