Build a Modern PC 2008 - Part 2

In which Ian Waugh gathers together the tools for the job and starts putting the pieces together

Tools for the job

There's no definitive way to put the pieces together but we like to take the path of least resistance so our method makes it fairly easy.

First, check that you have all the parts you need. In addition to the PC bits, you'll need a cross-head screwdriver. You may also need a flat-edged screwdriver although most screws in a PC are cross-head types. We'd advise against using a power screwdriver as it's difficult to tell how much force is being applied and most screws in a PC only need to be tightened to hand tightness.

A pair of tweezers is useful, too, mainly for picking out screws and small objects from the case - you're bound to drop some, and you certainly don't want to leave them there!

We use Silverlight Antistatic Tweezers which have carbonite tips (ed: You sure? Carbonite is an explosive!).

You also need to protect the parts from ESD (Electrostatic Discharge) which you can do by making sure you're earthed. At the least, get an anti-static wrist strap. If you intend to do much electrical work, it could be worthwhile getting a mat, too, like the Lindy Anti-static Service Kit.

A torch is useful, too, for lightening dark places inside the case, especially after the motherboard has been fitted and if you're working into the night…

Leave all the components in their packaging until you need them to avoid damage and ESD. (build-a-pc-all-the-parts.jpg)

Blu-Tack Tip

Here's a tip you may find useful. You'll often need to insert a screw inside the depths of the PC case such as the screws that hold the motherboard. It can often be difficult to get the screw in the hole, as the components get in the way of hands and fingers.

In such cases, we put a spot of Blu-Tack (or modelling clay) into the screw head and then press the screwdriver in so the screw sticks. You can then position the screw and screw it in quite easily. If the Blu-Tack doesn't come away with the screwdriver, you can remove it with the tweezers.

Construction

The order of construction that we use is roughly as follows:

1. Fit PSU into case
2. Fit I/O back panel connector plate
3. Fit stand-offs for motherboard to case
4. Fit CPU to motherboard
5. Fit the RAM
6. Fit heatsink and fan

(In many cases it might be easier to fit some plugs and connections to the motherboard before you fit the motherboard inside the case. It will usually be possible to fit all the connectors after fitting the motherboard but it may be fiddly so look at your set-up and make an executive decision.)

7. Fit motherboard onto stand-offs
8. Connect the motherboard power connectors
9. Connect other cabling
10. Install speaker to hear POST beeps.
11. Fit graphics card
12. Fit hard disk
13. Fit optical drive
14. Fit fan connections
15. Additional (optional) fans

We'll now look at each process in more detail.

Fitting the PSU

Our case came fitted with a PSU so this bit was easy! Many cases come with a PSU fitted. However, if you have a separate case and PSU, it's very easy to fit.

With most cases, the PSU goes at the back near the top (although there are exceptions). Lay the case on its side and manoeuvre the PSU into place. It will only fit one way around which you'll see from the screw placements and the backplane slot.

Secure with the four screws. Be careful not to drop any inside the PSU itself. You simply cannot start it up with foreign objects inside so you'll have to get them out.

Fit I/O back panel connector plate

This is the cut-out supplied with the motherboard which has holes for the various connectors like mouse, keyboard, USB, audio, Ethernet and so on. The case will likely already have one but it's most unlikely that it will suit the motherboard.

Most I/O panels simply push out so are very easy to remove and replace. Some may be held in place with screws.

Make sure the panel it fitted the right way around. Look at the connectors on the motherboard and make sure that when the motherboard is in its correct orientation inside the case - that is, with the connectors on the motherboard facing the back of the case - that the connectors fit into the holes in the I/O panel.

Fit stand-offs for motherboard to case

The stand-offs are used to keep the motherboard away from the chassis. Most motherboards have nine screw holes but this can vary so check the manual and the board to see where the holes are.

Most cases have more than nine holes in order to accommodate a range of boards so you must make sure you put the stand-offs in the holes to suite your motherboard.

Stand-offs are usually brass and hand-tight is tight enough. Tweak a touch if you must but be very careful not to over-tighten.

Fitting the CPU

We generally find it easiest to fit the CPU and RAM to the motherboard before fitting the motherboard into the case. The CPU can look a frightening beast but, like most aspects of PC-building, fitting is easy.

There are different types of CPU and CPU fittings so check your motherboard manual for details. Most CPUs, however, drop into a socket and are locked into place with a lever.

You must make sure the CPU is oriented the correct way. You can't fit it the "wrong way around" but if it's not oriented correctly and you try to force it, you could well cause damage. The manual will explain how to position it.

Our AMD Phenom and CPU socket both feature a triangle mark so you simply make sure the triangle on the CPU is pointing to the triangle on the socket. Then you push the socket lever down to lock the CPU in place and clip the lever under a tab on the socket to hold it in place.

Fit the RAM

RAM is also easier to fit outside the case although it shouldn't be difficult to fit inside the case, either. However, with our selected equipment, the Arctic Cooler Freezer 64 slightly overhangs the first RAM socket so fitting outside the case is much easier.

Take care handling the RAM. First, push back the holding clips on both ends of the RAM sockets. Hold the RAM at the ends and position it over the slot. You can't fit it the wrong way around. You'll see a notch in the RAM strip that aligns with a notch in the slot.

Push down gently but firmly and the clips at either end will close over the RAM strip. If you find you're pushing quite hard, the RAM is probably not aligned correctly in the slot. You should not have to force it.

Make sure the clips are fully closed by gently pushing them over the edge of the RAM.

Fit heatsink and fan (HSF)

Again, we find it easier to fit the HSF before putting the motherboard into the case. We tried a couple of HSF units and settled on an Artic Freezer 64 Pro. Here are full details on fitting a heat sink and Fan

In the third part of Building Your Own PC we'll continue our construction by fitting the motherboard and other components.

 

Ian Waugh
Read More of Ian's music reviews and tips at www.making-music.com